Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and visitors equally praising its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, Unesco designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a select list of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it enters a worldwide network of more than four hundred metropolises across over 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The honor "is a testament to its profound gastronomic legacy and dynamic food ecosystem," as stated by a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of 70 cities internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this time-honored city comes as little surprise to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, lively, and eclectic city – the capital of India's biggest state – is now in the spotlight for what has consistently defined its heart: an profound love for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a continued conversation from waking up until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, perfected, and taken to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, blending Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates local ingredients but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and carts – little-known gems that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in kulhads, along with fluffy buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a unpretentious joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and demanding. The cook beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but say that their children are reluctant to learn the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will encourage more people worldwide to explore these narratives and travel to the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
